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Grand Canyon Or Bust, Part 1

(This is Part 1 of a two-part post.)

It feels good to be back, focusing on and sharing Ursula’s life story once again. As noted in my previous post, before continuing with Ursula’s 1928 Hawaiian adventure, I’m going to backtrack to a trip she took with her mother, Clara, to the American Southwest.

While preparing to dig back into Mystery Dancer, I looked through the antique maroon velvet album again to reacquaint myself with the Cheshire family photos, and came across this gem:

Ursula and Clara Cheshire in the Grand Canyon 1926

Ursula (left) and Clara Cheshire tour the Grand Canyon in 1926.

On the back is scrawled, “Grand Canyon…1926.” Though mother Clara’s expression is difficult to read, Ursula’s spirited smile gives her a cheerful, playful air. She looks happy.

Ursula Cheshire, 1926

Ursula was about 24 years old when she and Clara visited the Grand Canyon in 1926.

1926 was an eventful year for Ursula: several newspapers across the nation reported that her divorce from Sydney Bartlett (along with those of several other American couples) was decreed official by the Paris courts. She also sang and acted to acclaim in the play “The Sin of David” in Los Angeles, and made her singing debut on the Warner Brothers’ KFWB radio station in Hollywood. And, at some point, she and her mother ventured to Arizona to see the Grand Canyon, at the time a relatively new national park.

The National Park Service itself was created only 10 years earlier, and in 1919, the Grand Canyon became the 17th designated National Park. Before 1925-26, most visitors arrived by train, disembarking at the Grand Canyon Railway Depot, virtually at the doorstep of the canyon’s south rim. With the growth in automobile production and ownership, as well as improved roads and new highways, recreational travel was becoming more popular in the United States. By the time Ursula and her mother visited, a majority of tourists came by car, with most of those hailing from California.

It’s impossible to say for sure how they got to the scenic natural wonder, what they did when they got there, or where they stayed. But some online sleuthing, as well as a closer examination of the photo, gave me some clues.

Santa Fe Train illustration

The Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Fe Railway developed the Grand Canyon area as a “destination resort” in the early 20th century.

The Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Fe Railway had recently developed the area as a “destination resort,” extending tracks directly to the Grand Canyon in 1901, as well as financing hotels there, and hiring the Fred Harvey Co. to manage them. By process of elimination, I had a pretty good idea of where mother and daughter might have stayed. Phantom Ranch was out, as it was situated below the rim, accessible only by foot, mule or boat. Ursula might have been game, but I doubt Clara would have gone for that, nor for Hermit Camp, also down in the Canyon, where guests stayed in tent cabins. Bright Angel, a hotel for middle-class tourists, was also doubtful.

The most likely place was El Tovar, a splendid hotel that the Santa Fe Railway opened in 1905 just 20 feet from the edge of the Canyon’s south rim.

Described as a cross between a Swiss chalet and Norway villa, it was geared toward a wealthy clientele, offering relative luxury in a rustic setting. The limestone and pine log building boasted hot and cold running water, steam heat and electric light. Ursula and Clara would have slept in sleigh beds and enjoyed meals featuring fresh fruits and vegetables grown in the hotel’s greenhouse, as well as fresh eggs and milk provided by the hotel’s own livestock.

El Tovar Hotel 1920s

Providing luxury accommodations, the historic El Tovar hotel opened in 1905 on the south rim of the Grand Canyon. (Photo: Nature and Science / Alamy Stock Photo)

They might have played piano and sung in the music room, strolled around the roof-top garden, viewed Native American crafts in the lobby under the light of copper chandeliers, and, near the hotel, watched Hopis in native dress demonstrate traditional dances.

Still welcoming tourists today, El Tovar is, according to its website, “widely considered the crown jewel of Historic National Park Lodges.” Someday I’d like to follow in Ursula’s footsteps, visiting the Grand Canyon, staying in the same hotel and seeing the same sights. 

(To be continued…)

Mystery Dancer Is Back!

Ursula Cheshire

Ursula Cheshire as a young woman

Mystery Dancer is back! The past 25 months (yes, it’s been that long since my last post!) have been a blur. In addition to my day job as a freelance health care writer, I was honored to take part in an intensive eight-week artist entrepreneur program in Nashville. Then my father became ill and passed away, and in quick succession, so did a close relative of my husband’s. For some time I was also dealing with various health issues of my own—nothing too serious, but time-consuming nonetheless. Along in there, my husband and I became vendors at a delightful vintage shop nearby, and we traveled to Venice, Italy for our 10th anniversary.

And poor Ursula got left by the wayside. Well, not too poor – we stranded her in Hawaii! I wouldn’t mind being stranded in Hawaii sometime. This is all to say that life is good and I am renewing my commitment to creative projects, including Mystery Dancer. I aim to post every Tuesday evening starting this coming week. There is lots more to the story!

Before I continue with Ursula’s visit to Hawaii in 1928, I’m going to backtrack to a trip she took with her mother, Clara, to the Grand Canyon two years earlier. Stay tuned…And be sure to subscribe to Mystery Dancer so that you can receive an e-mail announcing the latest post. If you’re new to Mystery Dancer, welcome—the best place to start is at the beginning and go from there.

One more note: You can now follow Mystery Dancer on Instagram. Woot!

Ursula’s Hawaiian Adventure

I just ordered a hardcover book called Hollywood to Honolulu, The Story of the Los Angeles Steamship Company. I can’t wait to see the photographs and read about the ships Ursula sailed on to and from Hawaii. In the meantime, from the book’s promotional material, below is a description of the joyful L.A. harbor departure that Ursula and her friend Elizabeth would have experienced on January 14, 1928:

S.S. City of Honolulu

The S.S. City of Honolulu

“For over a decade during the Roaring Twenties, a great white ocean liner would sail from berth 156 in Los Angeles every Saturday. The pier was packed with waving and cheering people looking up at the happy passengers crowding the railings. The vessel’s band on deck played jazz tunes and popular favorites. The captain stood forward on the bridge wing watching the lowering of the gangway amid a hail of colored streamers and confetti. The liner’s whistle would blow at noon, raising the cheering to a higher pitch as the band played ‘Aloha Oe.’ Slowly the great mass of the liner inched away from the dock.”

cloche hats 1920s

Cloche hats were popular in the 1920s

Can’t you just see Ursula leaning over the ship’s railing, laughing with excitement, one hand on cloche hat while waving with the other to her smiling, yet tearful, mother down on the dock?

In my last post, I imagined Ursula aboard the S.S. City of Honolulu sipping cocktails with Elizabeth and young gentlemen admirers. Despite Prohibition, which lasted from 1920 to 1933, many of the ship’s passengers would have indeed enjoyed imbibing. According to a Los Angeles Times article about the vessel’s sister ship, S.S. City of Los Angeles:

Elizabeth Everyhardy passport photo

Ursula’s friend Elizabeth Everhardy (1924 passport photo)

“During Prohibition, travelers had a strong reason to board a ship that made a monthly voyage. Although liquor was supposedly banned from the ship, the City of Los Angeles held nightly cocktail parties in a library devoid of books.”

After six days at sea aboard the City of Honolulu, one of the first sights Ursula would have seen as the luxurious liner approached Honolulu Harbor was the new 10-story Aloha Tower. Built in 1926 to welcome arriving passenger ships, this lighthouse/clock tower was the tallest structure in Hawaii at the time, and still stands today as a historic landmark and iconic symbol of Hawaiians’ hospitality.

Illustration of the S.S. City of Honolulu arriving in Honolulu Harbor, with the Aloha Tower depicted on the right

Vintage illustration of the S.S. City of Honolulu arriving in Honolulu Harbor, with the Aloha Tower depicted on the right

In his interesting paper “Creating ‘Paradise of the Pacific’: How Tourism Began in Hawaii,” University of Hawai’i professor James Mak describes the over-the-top welcome Ursula, Elizabeth, and their fellow passengers would have received as their ship neared the shore on January 20, 1928:

SS_City_of_Honolulu_Illustration

Vintage illustration of the S.S. City of Honolulu entering Honolulu Harbor

“Reminiscent of ‘Steamer Days’ from many decades earlier, ‘Boat Days’ would be celebrated beginning in the late 1920s to welcome passenger liners arriving at the Aloha Tower in Honolulu. Ships were met by swarms of lei-bearing greeters, newspaper reporters were on hand to interview dignitaries, female dancers performed hula to Hawaiian music played by the Royal Hawaiian Band, and outrigger canoes and coin divers circled the ships. Each arrival became a festive occasion, and it has been reported that many locals left work early to take part in the festivities.”

Unfortunately, there are no photographs from Ursula’s Hawaiian adventure, but here is a short home movie (with period music) taken by another tourist visiting Hawaii that same year; Ursula probably saw some of these same or similar sights:

Film highlights include entering Honolulu Harbor (at the beginning); ­hula dancing (2:18); ‘Iolani Palace (4:24); coastline (5:20); beautiful park-like grounds of a hotel (5:35); Hawaiian boy diving and catching coin (5:48); majestic palm tree (6:10); sugar cane plantation (6:22); and driving in the mountains (7:21).

Hawaii-Bound

Brady_BunchWhen I was a kid, I loved “The Brady Bunch” episode where the family travels to Hawaii. I have wanted to visit the “Aloha State” ever since, but, alas, have not made it there yet. But Ursula has!

When she was 26, Ursula and her long-time friend Elizabeth Everhardy embarked on a trip to Hawaii aboard the S.S. City of Honolulu on January 14, 1928. I learned this from the California, Passenger and Crew Lists, 1882-1959 that I accessed on Ancestry.com. For some reason, the ship’s manifest lists Ursula’s age as 20 and birth date as June 4, 1908 instead of June 9, 1902. Perhaps it was a mistake, or perhaps Ursula was trying to pass herself off as a younger woman!

Passenger list

S.S. “City of Honolulu” passenger list with Ursula departing Los Angeles on January 14, 1928

Unfortunately, the antique photo albums have yielded no pictures of Ursula’s Hawaiian holiday, nor have I found any information online about her time there. However, the ships she traveled on to and from Honolulu have fascinating histories. In this post, we learn about the ship she sailed on to Hawaii.

SS-kiautschouBuilt in Germany in 1899 for a German shipping company called Hamburg America Line, the ship Ursula and Elizabeth sailed on was originally named the S.S. Kiautschou, after a German colony in China. It initially traveled between Hamburg, Germany and East Asia. In 1904, the ship was traded for five freighters to another German company. Renamed the S.S. Prinzess Alice, it spent the next 10 years traveling between Bremen, Germany; Suez Canal; East Asia; New York; and Cherbourg, France.

S.S. "Prinzess Alice"

S.S. “Prinzess Alice,” German-owned, sailed 1904-1914, seized by the U.S. in 1917

At the outbreak of World War I in 1914, the S.S. Prinzess Alice was interned in the Philippines. The United States seized it three years later and renamed it the U.S.S. Princess Matoika—a variation on the spelling of the birth name of Pocahontas, and meaning “flower between two streams.” According to a book by Wikipedia, the German crew did not sabotage the ship before its seizure, “unlike most other German ships interned by the US.”

As a transport ship for the US Navy during WWI, it carried more than 50,000 US troops to and from France from 1918 to 1919. It was decommissioned in September 1919, then operated as a US Army transport, continuing to return healthy and wounded troops and repatriating the remains of Americans killed overseas during the war. The following year, it carried much of the US team to the 1920 summer Olympics in Antwerp, Belgium.

U.S.S. Princess Matoika, 1919

U.S.S. Princess Matoika, 1919

But wait—there’s more! The ship was chartered to the U.S. Mail Steamship Company, and in 1921 began service for civilians between New York and Italy. More adventures ensued. While carrying about 2,000 Italian immigrants to the United States on its first return trip from Italy, Princess Matoika reportedly hit an iceberg off Newfoundland, but was not seriously damaged. On the ship’s third and final return voyage from Italy, the Wikipedia book notes:

“U.S. Customs Service agents at New York seized $150,000 worth of cocaine—along with valuable silks and jewels—being smuggled into the United States. Officials speculated that because of a maritime strike, members of a smuggling ring were able to infiltrate the crew of the ship.”

Palestine_AdThe ship changed hands a couple more times, was renamed the S.S. President Arthur, and purchased in 1924 by American Palestine Line, reportedly the first Jewish-owned and operated steamship company. After being refurbished, the ship sailed on its maiden voyage to Palestine in 1925. President Arthur was claimed to have been the first ocean liner to fly the Zionist flag at sea and the first to have female officers.

Finally, the Los Angeles Steamship Company acquired the ship in August 1926 for future service between Los Angeles and Hawaii. The vessel was docked in LA and underwent a $2,500,000 rebuild over the next eight months. Renamed the S.S. City of Honolulu, it set sail on its maiden voyage June 4, 1927, just two days after Ursula’s 26th birthday and seven months before she and Elizabeth stepped aboard.

City of Honolulu could accommodate around 450 first-class passengers (which the young women were) and 50 third-class. This is the luxurious setting in which Ursula and Elizabeth spent six days at sea, arriving at the Port of Honolulu January 20, 1928 (text from Wikipedia: Featured Articles, “Voyage: Inspired by Jules Verne”):

“[City of Honolulu’s] hull was painted all white…, and she sported period designs in her common areas. The dining room, large enough to seat 300 in a single sitting, was decorated in a Grecian theme, and featured 18 stained glass windows designed by San Diego architect Carleton M. Winslow. The smoking room was done up in a Tudor style; the music room was decorated in a combined French and Italian Renaissance manner; and the writing room was in Adam style. The suites were all done in either Adam, Queen Anne, or Louis XVI styles. The ship featured six passenger elevators, and a swimming pool patterned on a Pompeian design. One of the few remaining traces of her pre-war German decoration was the rosewood railing on her grand staircase.”

SS_City_of_HonoluluDuring its brief, three-year career as a tropical ocean liner, City of Honolulu carried a number of notable passengers, including movie stars, sports figures, an arctic explorer, a chewing gum magnate, Stradivarius instrument dealer (and three Stradivarius violins), government officials, Hull House founder and settlement house pioneer Jane Addams, and singer Al Jolson.

But to me, the SS City of Honolulu’s most notable guest was Ursula Claire Cheshire. I imagine her floating down the grand staircase in an elegant evening gown, sipping cocktails and trading bon mots with Elizabeth and some young gentlemen admirers, and even playing the piano and singing in the music room, sharing her lovely voice with fellow passengers on their way to a tropical paradise.

Hawaiian Teaser

S.S. City of Honolulu

Ursula and her friend traveled to Hawaii aboard the S.S. “City of Honolulu” in January 1928

 

 

On Saturday, January 14, 1928 in Los Angeles, Ursula and her friend Elizabeth Everhardy boarded the S.S. City of Honolulu, bound for a Hawaiian holiday. I look forward to telling you more about Ursula’s trip, but unfortunately, my schedule has been so busy that I haven’t had as much time to devote to her story as I would like! Please stay tuned.

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Ursula Honored at Friend’s Party

LA Times article on Everhardy luncheon

The “Los Angeles Times” reports on a luncheon thrown by Ursula’s friend Elizabeth Everyhardy (March 27, 1927)

The next news we have of Ursula since her singing on KFWB radio comes from the “Society” column in the March 27, 1927 issue of the Los Angeles Times. Apparently, Ursula was a guest of honor at a luncheon and bridge party given by “Mrs. and Miss Everhardy,” who were longtime friends of the Cheshires. The first mention I found of them in my research was when Ursula’s parents attended a party at their house in February 1909. In June 1916 when Ursula was 14 years old, she was among about “fifty or more of the younger set” who were invited to a surprise dance party for her friend Elizabeth (“Miss Everhardy”).

Sixty-four people were invited to the 1927 luncheon, described as “one of the lovely affairs of the month.” Ursula’s mother, Clara, assisted the hostesses with the party, which included prizes for card games.

Light on fact checking, the news article noted that Ursula had “just returned from several years in Paris, France, where she has been studying voice culture…” As we know, Ursula did study voice culture, but it was in Southern France, and she was abroad just from May 1924 through June 1925, possibly returning to Paris briefly in 1926 to appear in divorce court.

Held at the Elks lodge in Los Angeles, the Everhardys’ event featured lovely décor:

“A spring motif was charmingly carried out in the table decorations, and the tall blue tapers were tied with fluffy bows of yellow tulle, following out a blue and gold color motif, while the place cards were hand-painted sketches of spring maids in all the dainty French colorings.”

Elks Temple 99

The Elks lodge where Ursula attended her friend’s party

Constructed just two years earlier, the Elks’ Art Deco building was later transformed into a luxurious hotel, the Park Plaza, which, according to its website, still stands but is used “exclusively for events and filming.”

Until next time…

Ursula Cheshire, Hollywood Singer

The precursor to the iconic "Hollywood" sign was erected in 1923

The precursor to the iconic “Hollywood” sign was erected in 1923

Given Ursula’s dramatic and singing activities in Los Angeles in 1926 and 1927, I assumed she settled there after she and her mother, Clara, returned from Europe. Now I have proof: A 1926 voter registration list showing her address as 1967 North Bronson Ave., situated in L.A.’s Hollywood neighborhood, the world’s “film capital” at the time. That year, studio newcomer Greta Garbo starred in her first silent Hollywood film, Torrent, a Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer (MGM) production.

Poster for Greta Garbo's first silent Hollywood film, "Torrent," released in 1926

Poster for Greta Garbo’s first silent Hollywood film, “Torrent,” released in 1926

Registered as Republicans (can you imagine what they would think of Donald Trump?!), Ursula and Clara lived together at that address at least through 1934, according to voter registration lists from subsequent years. Clara’s occupation was listed as “housewife,” while Ursula’s was “singer.”

1926 Los Angeles voter registration list, noting Mrs. Clara Cheshire and Miss Ursula Cheshire

1926 Los Angeles voter registration list, noting Mrs. Clara Cheshire and Miss Ursula Cheshire

That is no surprise, given her studying voice in France with opera star Emma Calvé and singing on the radio in L.A. But now we know that Ursula thought of herself as a “singer.” I didn’t know it at the time I started this blog, but apparently “Mystery Singer” would have been a more apt title (although it doesn’t have quite the same ring and intrigue as “Mystery Dancer”!).

Fun fact: The original “Hollywood” sign actually said “Hollywoodland” (erected 1923) and was an advertisement for a new suburban housing development. If you’re interested in this iconic sign’s history, check out this nifty website.

Great News! ‘Mystery Dancer’ Selected as an Official Honoree in The Webby Awards

Webby_HonoreeI am excited to share an excerpt of a letter I received the other day:

“Dear Elizabeth,

It is my pleasure to inform you that Mystery Dancer has been selected as an Official Honoree in The 20th Annual Webby Awards in the Web: Personal Blog/Website category.

In recognition of the exceptional quality of submissions received this year, the Academy has acknowledged outstanding entries as Official Honorees, alongside our Nominees. With nearly 13,000 entries received from almost all 50 US states and 65 countries, the Official Honoree distinction is awarded to the top 20% of all work entered that exhibits remarkable achievement.

Congratulations—this is an outstanding accomplishment for you!…”

The leading international award honoring excellence on the Internet named "Mystery Dancer" an Official Honoree in 2016

The leading international award honoring excellence on the Internet named “Mystery Dancer” an Official Honoree in 2016

The Webby Awards, presented by the International Academy of Digital Arts and Sciences (IADAS), is the leading international award honoring excellence on the Internet.

It feels great to be recognized by such an esteemed group for my “labor of love,” but the highest honor for me is to have readers who follow Mystery Dancer and are interested in, enjoy and appreciate the discovery of Ursula’s real-life story. Please share Mystery Dancer with anyone else you think would enjoy it, too.

Thank you for coming along for the journey!

San Francisco, Here We Come (Part 3): Inner Sanctum

(Need to catch up? Read part 1 here. Read part 2 here.)

Living room at front of house

Living room at front of house

While telling Sal more about Ursula’s story, I realize we are sitting in the Cheshire’s front parlor, the room in which the antique photo album’s picture of 715 Baker Street was taken. I look through the double doorway into Sal’s guest room, imagining little Ursula singing and playing the piano that used to sit where the bed is now.

Left: The living room/parlor with double doorway. Right: Looking into the Cheshire's music room through the double doorway in the parlor

Left: The living room/parlor with double doorway. Right: Looking into the Cheshire’s music room through the double doorway in the parlor

Sal's guest room, the Cheshire's music room

Sal’s guest room, the Cheshire’s music room

After chatting for a little while, Sal suggests a tour through the rest of the house. At last! We enter the long hallway, lined with rich, dark-wood paneling along the lower portion of the wall.

Hallway_1I love seeing how other people live and decorate their living spaces. As we move slowly through the rooms, chatting along the way, I take in Sal’s eclectic artwork, furniture and décor. I feel a curious blend of HGTV-like voyeurism and an almost sacred awe at walking on the very floors Ursula padded down as a young girl, and through the very chambers she and her parents inhabited.

Ursula spent her early childhood there, from age one to about five. The Cheshires then moved to Los Angeles, but held on to the Baker Street home. When Ursula was 16, a few years after her father’s death, she and Clara moved back to San Francisco, setting up home again at Baker Street for the teen’s last year of high school.

One-year-old Ursula

One-year-old Ursula

Walking through the house, I imagine the presence of Ursula and her parents— vague, ghost-like figures going about their daily lives. I silently observe a bygone time, a mirage of the past superimposed over the clear, colorful present.

We pass the bathroom, actually two separate rooms—one with a sink and bath, the other with a toilet. Down the hall, Sal opens the door to his spacious, walk-in closet. We surmise it must have been Ursula’s small bedroom. I thrill at standing in the very room where she slept and cried and laughed and played.

Kitchen

Kitchen

A little farther down the hall is a modern kitchen, and, at the back of the house, a dining room with bay window and ornate, white-painted woodwork surrounding the fireplace mantel. Then Sal’s bedroom—probably Alfred and Clara’s in the past—also with bay window.

Dining_Room

Dining room

Master bedroom

Master bedroom

Hallway and front door

Hallway and front door

Tour complete, we meander towards the front door to say our thanks and goodbyes. Before leaving, I ask Sal if it’s OK for me to share with “Mystery Dancer” readers some of the pictures I took inside the house.

Not only does he say yes, he also tells me I can post some professional photos he had taken for his home’s profile on…Airbnb! Whoa—what?! You mean I could actually stay in the Cheshire’s old family home, hanging out, staying overnight and breaking bread with the ghosts of Ursula, Clara and Alfred? Someday I will. And you could, too, dear reader!

 

Ursula at age 1, with Mama Clara

Mama and 1-year-old Ursula

San Francisco, Here We Come (Part 2)

(Continued from “San Francisco, Here We Come!”)

House_Front

715-717 Baker Street, San Francisco, where Ursula lived as a little girl and teenager

Thankfully, I heard from Sal the next day—Monday afternoon! Through text messages, we arranged for me to come over at 11:30 am Tuesday, Michael’s and my last full day in San Francisco.I breathed a sigh of relief and smiled. I was going to get to see Ursula’s house!

On Tuesday morning, Michael and I said goodbye to our friends and their two fluffy cats, and got in our rental car parked out front. We drove in light rain down Lincoln Way along the south edge of Golden Gate Park, then catty-corner through the park and along the Panhandle. Turning left on Baker Street, we started looking for the house after a few blocks. After passing several other Victorian homes on the tree-lined street, we found a parking spot a couple doors down from our destination.

Entryway to 715-717 Baker St.

Entryway to 715-717 Baker St.

The rain had stopped and the sun had just broken through the clouds. A good omen, I mused. We decided I would introduce Michael to Sal and ask if it was OK if he tagged along for the tour. We walked up the 10 steps to the entryway, where twin, green-colored wood doors with oval windows stood side by side: 715-717 Baker St.

A small, hand-scrawled sign instructing visitors to knock was taped next to the apparently malfunctioning doorbell of Sal’s—and previously the Cheshire’s—flat. I rapped on the door a few times, and saw a handsome, somewhat sleepy-looking young man in pajama-like pantaloons and T-shirt walking toward the door.

He opened it and graciously welcomed Michael and me into his home. After smiles and handshakes all around, Sal, a doctor, explained his attire and bed-head by way of saying he’d been on call the night before. He invited us into his bay-windowed living room to chat for a while, before showing us the house. I couldn’t wait to see it!  (To be continued…)

Me in front of  the Cheshire's old house

Me in front of the Cheshire’s old house